I’ve never liked eggplant. The taste was bitter but past that, remarkably bland with a similar texture. Not that exciting.
So I decided to grow some this year. This is something I recommend against to my customers- “Grow what you like to eat” is what I advise.
My reasons for growing something that I don’t like are simple; I also don’t like supermarket tomatoes, yet love the ones that I grow. I wanted to try one eggplant to see if it was different than what I had tasted before. It’s the supermarket vs. homegrown argument on a different level. Supermarket tomatoes are merely tasteless, whereas eggplant is unpleasant to me.
The first eggplant of the season was ready yesterday. A medium gorgeously purple beauty, surprisingly light in weight. I pulled the cookbooks out to see what made sense to try that would showcase the flavor of the eggplant and didn’t require the oven on for an hour, or at all. Marcella Hazan came to the rescue once again. She is an incredible chef and writer of the lesser known Italian cooking that most of us have never experienced. You get the recipe, and the reasons for the actions taken in the cooking and why to not shortcut the steps. Flavors are described in detail and reasons behind the techniques are given, something I’ve rarely seen. The stories behind each recipe are compelling as well, something I love from the heirloom seeds.
The recipe I tried is Eggplant Sauce with Bell Pepper, Tomato and Basil. I’ll give it to you at the end. The freshly sliced eggplant was not bitter, but had a slightly sweet flavor that compounded the smell of the fresh eggplant. I salted it according to the directions, which made it sweeter. I chose this recipe as it used more fresh ingredients from our garden. I’ve got some wonderfulGenovese Basil that has an incredible aroma and holds up in cooking. I don’t have the bell peppers or tomatoes yet, so will try it again when another eggplant is ripe.
The overall character is complex and slightly spicy with many individual flavors that come through, yet is in harmony as no single flavor overpowers another. Italian flavor at it’s finest! The flavors are not overbearing, as most common American Italian cooking has become, but are lively and pleasing. This is a lighter dish, perfect for summer cooking, and can be done outside on a grill if one is experienced at outdoor cooking, not just barbecuing. This is a dish I would prep ahead of time to do trail side at the end of a long day exploring the backcountry of Arizona or the Southwest. It’s not hard, but attention and patience are needed to bring the flavors out! The small investment of time is well worth it.
Here’s the recipe:
1 1/2 lbs eggplant
Salt
1 ripe bell pepper (yellow is best, but make sure it’s ripe)
3 Tbs extra virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves sliced very thin
1/8 Tsp crushed red pepper or to taste
2 Tbs Italian flat leaf parsley- whole leaves, not chopped
1/3 Cup thinly sliced onion
1 Cup ripe fresh tomatoes, peeled and chopped. Canned Italian tomatoes will work.
1/3 Cup dry white wine
6 small basil leaves or 4 large ones, torn not cut into small pieces
6 green olives in brine, quartered
1 1/2 Tbs capers
1 Lb box dry pasta, penne is good choice
Slice eggplant in half. If seeds are dark, or if there a lot of seeds, scoop seeds out. Cut eggplant into 1 inch squares, put into colander rinse in cold water. Salt and let set for 45 minutes. This brings out the bitter liquid if there is any. Rinse again afterwards.
Split bell pepper in half, scoop out seeds and pith, then peel skin with swivel peeler. This removes the bitterness in the skin once cooked. Cut into thin strips.
Warm 3 Tbs olive oil in 10 inch skillet, then add garlic and chili pepper. Increase heat to medium, no more. Stir often just until garlic scent rises, no more.
Add whole parsley leaves. Careful, they will pop and sputter for a couple of seconds. Stir a couple of times, add onion and turn heat to low. Cook slowly until onion is soft. This increases the flavor by cooking slowly, and the garlic flavor is not entirely lost.
Add pepper strips, some salt and cook until pepper starts to be tender. Stir occasionally. You should have some liquid starting to build in the bottom of the pan.
Add eggplant, tomatoes, wine, basil, olives and capers. Stir several times to mix well. Slowly simmer with lid on for 40 minutes, watching liquid level. It should slowly decrease, and have almost no liquid at the end. Add a small amount if it looks dry. Stir occasionally during the simmer. Crack lid if too much liquid is remaining about 15 minutes before the end, or when you put the pasta water on.
Time cooking the pasta so its done just before the sauce, about 7-10 minutes. Toss pasta with sauce, adding 1 more Tbs olive oil and serve hot. Cheese is really not needed, but you can add a small amount of pecorino if you want. Don’t drown the delicate sauce in cheese!
Enjoy and let me know what you think! Please leave a comment!
Place sausage links onto a sheet pan and bake for 25 minutes, or until done. Cut links in half lengthwise, then cut at an angle into 1/2-inch slices.
Place onions and bacon slices in a large saucepan and cook over medium heat until onions are almost clear. Remove bacon and crumble. Set aside. Note- You can saute the kale at this step for extra richness in its flavor!
Add garlic to the onions and cook an additional 1 minute. Add chicken soup base, water, and potatoes, simmer 15 minutes. Note- This is where I prefer to add my kale! Russian kale will take the simmer without losing its texture and flavor.
Add crumbled bacon, sausage, kale, and cream. Simmer 4 minutes and serve.
Stir-Fried Kale and Broccoli Florets
Good for an unusual side dish. Can be used for a light fall lunch or dinner starter.
INGREDIENTS
1/8 cup extra virgin olive oil
7 cloves garlic, sliced
1 chile pepper, chopped (optional)
1 head fresh broccoli, chopped
1 bunch kale, stems removed and chopped
1/4 cup sun-dried tomatoes, cut in thin strips
juice of 2 limes
salt
DIRECTIONS
Heat olive oil in a large wok or skillet over high heat. Stir in garlic and chile pepper; cook for 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in broccoli; cook 1 minute. Add kale, and cook 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in sun-dried tomatoes. Pour in lime juice, and season with salt to taste. Toss well.
Pork Tenderloin with Steamed Kale
Amazing showcase of pork and kale. For extra flavor, marinate the tenderloin for a couple of hours, up to overnight.
INGREDIENTS
2 limes, juiced
1 cup olive oil
2 teaspoons dried cilantro
1 teaspoon cracked peppercorns
1 teaspoon garlic salt
1 (1 1/2 pound) pork tenderloin
1 pound kale, stems removed and leaves coarsely chopped
DIRECTIONS
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). In a small bowl , whisk olive oil with lime juice. Season with cilantro, garlic salt, and peppercorns.
Brush the pork tenderloin with three tablespoons of the lime dressing. Wrap in aluminum foil, and place on in a large baking dish. Roast in preheated oven for 30 to 45 minutes, or until a meat thermometer reads 170 degrees. Note- can be slow grilled on indirect heat on a BBQ if the weather is too hot or you want a smoky flavor!
While the tenderloin is cooking, place kale in a steamer. Cook for 20 minutes, or until tender. You can saute the kale now for a more intense flavor.
Slice the pork tenderloin into 1 1/2 inch thick slices. Serve on top of the kale. Whisk the remaining dressing, and drizzle over pork and kale. Make sure to serve the kale under and on the side of the pork, don’t just use it as a garnish! It adds a depth of flavor to the pork.
There is some starters for what to do with kale. There are a lot of great bean/sausage/kale recipes that will keep you warm this fall and winter. Please let me know what you think, and share your experiences.
https://underwoodgardens.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/Russian-Kale1.jpg336448Stephen Scotthttps://underwoodgardens.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Survey-Header.jpgStephen Scott2009-07-01 13:47:162024-04-30 17:34:03Heirloom Red Russian Kale Recipes
We get a lot of questions on how to save seeds. Most of them are general seed saving questions, but most boil down to how to save seeds for the next year. Most of the seed packets have more seeds than will be used in one year, and most seeds are good for several years in proper storage conditions.
Please realize that seeds are meant to be planted, not stored!
We get a chuckle from the e-bay seed sellers and survivalist stores that proclaim their seeds are nitrogen flushed, vacuum packed in tin cans or aluminum foil pouches, and are good for 5 or 10 years.
That’s great, but if the seeds are tossed out in the unheated/uncooled garage for 3+ years- guess what?
They’re DEAD!
The temperature/humidity fluctuations shortens the life of the stored seeds drastically. Seeds are the plant’s mechanism for propagation and survival. They have evolved to survive for a short time- e.g. a winter or two- in the ground until the optimum conditions arrive to sprout.
For almost all domesticated varieties that are used for food, the optimum conditions mean next spring. There definitely are seeds that will last longer, but most are non-food plants. Throughout history people would collect and save seeds for the next year or two and have kept plant varieties alive for thousands of years.
Today we have methods to stabilize temperature and humidity; we have advantages in prolonging the life of the stored seed.
The best way to save seeds for future plantings are to keep the seeds in the original seed packets; that way you know where they came from, the name, planting instructions, etc. Then put them in clear Ziplock sandwich baggies with the date on the baggie.
This way you know when you started storing them.
Put all of the baggies in a gallon Ziplock and put it into the freezer.
“But won’t that hurt the seeds?”, people ask. Not at all!
This is why the Vavilov Institute in St. Petersburg, Russia uses liquid nitrogen to freeze seeds for a long time. This is also why the “Doomsday Vault” in Svalbard, Norway is located above the Arctic Circle and dug into the side of a mountain and several hundred feet down, to keep the vault below zero if the cooling system fails.
Your freezer is cold and has low humidity. You probably don’t go into the freezer several times a day like the refrigerator. Each time you open/shut the door, the outside air comes in, raising the temperature and humidity.
This isn’t good for your seeds if they are in the fridge. The freezer is more stable. Please understand the fridge is better than the garage or basement, but the freezer is even better, and you probably have space!
When time comes for planting next spring, take out the packets you will use, take out the seeds you will plant if there are a lot left, and put the bag back into the Ziplock and into the freezer. Let the seed to be planted come to room temperature before planting into the soil.
Most varieties will keep for 3+ years with no loss of germination.
There are exceptions, of course. Onion seeds are good for 1 year, no more, no matter the method of keeping. Garlic only grows from the bulb or clove, freezing kills it.
There are some other varieties that have a short life in storage, but don’t get too caught up in that. If you plant each year, you will be fine.
When you start to save your own seed, the same procedure applies- just be sure the seed is DRY, or else the freeze will expand any moisture in the seed and destroy it.
Label the bag with the name, date harvested, date stored and freeze it.
If you get into seed saving, or want a lot more information on the methods and details for each variety of vegetable, Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth is a wonderful book. It is not light reading, but if treated like a reference book or text book, you’ll do just fine.
https://underwoodgardens.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/DSC_0155.jpg333500Stephen Scotthttps://underwoodgardens.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Survey-Header.jpgStephen Scott2009-06-08 16:52:182024-04-30 17:34:03How to Store Your Seeds for Next Year
We are finishing up our raised bed garden, and wanted to show you what we have been working on. The raised beds will be both production garden for our family, and a test garden for the seed business. Our garden is 35 x 70 feet; smaller than some, larger than others. There are several projects that we are working on that we will keep you up to date on with the blog, so check back often!
Today is an overview of the gardens, our climate and challenges that we face, as well as an introduction of some of the projects that we are working on.
We are at 5000 feet elevation, with 4 full seasons, and are located between Phoenix and Flagstaff, so we avoid the temperature extremes of both places. Our temperatures range from 110 to 20 degrees F. We are in a high desert environment with about 12 inches of rain annually. The soil here is good, but needs organic matter worked into it to be productive. Arizona has a lot of microclimates, as does most areas of the US that have hills and elevation changes, so this presents unique challenges to growing depending on where you live.
Some of our challenges include the wind, heat and dry climate. These combine to dry out a garden severely unless measures are taken. Wind protection, drip irrigation and lots of mulch are some of the things we do to keep moisture where we need it. Even with our challenges, we can grow a ton of food, and so can you!
Let’s take a look-
This South facing shot shows the raised beds, the blue wind break on the fence and the wood chips in the walkway. Over the fence in the background is the native grassland. There is weed cloth under the wood chips; this gives a good walking surface that keeps the weeds out! We are moving worms into each bed to help build soil and keep the beds aerated and healthy.
Here is a photo of the worm bed. We haven’t put the weed cloth and chips in the walkway yet, but the weed cloth under the bed is visible. This is where we will have lots of worms, in addition to charcoal, coffee grounds, and horse manure compost. The worms love coffee grounds, which also retain a lot of moisture to help jump start the soil building process. The white PVC piping is the drip manifold with the shut off valves and the garden hose that connects each bed to the next. The charcoal is visible under the drip tape. It acts as condos for the micro-organisms that live in healthy soil. The humus-like soil will be used to amend or top-dress the other growing beds in the fall and spring. Once we have enough, we can use the excess humus as another product to sell locally. We will keep you updated on the progress.
This should give a good overview of what we are doing and where we are going. We will give more detailed info in the next few posts, so stay tuned!
Please don’t think that this level of gardening is required to be successful, it’s not! A lot smaller garden can be just as productive on a smaller scale- all the way down to 2×2 feet… The most important thing is to just get started! We will go over options on sizes in future blogs. As always, if you have questions or comments, please leave them on the comments section, or call us at 888-878-5247!
Well seed season is upon us! We have been busy with orders and talking to a LOT of incredibly nice and friendly people who are making things happen in the heirloom world. There has been a lot of support for us as new owners of Underwood Gardens and the direction that we are headed. We have found several new growers that will help us make the transition into more new and unusual heirloom varieties, while ensuring the quality and viability of the seed.
One of the trends we have seen is the amount of new or newer growers/gardeners that are looking at heirlooms for their gardens and food source. This is wonderful, especially in light of the legal action that Monsanto et al are trying to boondoggle America with. We ran across the following article at Kitchen Gardeners International and wanted to reprint it here in its entirety. Please enjoy, will write more later.
Dear Kitchen Gardener,
What’s a home garden worth? With the global economy spiraling downward and Mother Nature preparing to reach upward, it’s a good question to ask and a good time to ask it.
There isn’t one right answer, of course, but I’ll give you mine: $2149.15. Last year, my wife Jacqueline suggested to me that we calculate the total value of the produce coming out of our garden over the course of the growing season. Initially, the thought of doing that was about as appealing to me as a recreational root canal. I remember replying something like: “OK, so let me get this right: in addition to raising three busy boys, managing two careers, volunteering in a school garden, and growing most of our own produce, you’re proposing that we weigh every item that comes out of our garden, write it down in a log book, and spend a few leisurely evenings doing math?” Jacqueline, an economics major in college and a native French speaker, answered with a simple “oui” and so the project began.
There was a lot of work involved, mostly for Jacqueline, but as with gardening itself, it was work with a purpose. It didn’t take long for our log book to start filling up with dates and figures. Although we started eating our first garden salads in late April, we only began recording our harvests as of May 10th, starting first with greens and asparagus. Our last weighable harvest was two weeks ago in the form of a final cutting of Belgian endives forced from roots in our basement.
By the time we had finished weighing it all, we had grown 834 pounds and over six months worth of organic food (we’re still eating our own winter squash, onions, garlic, and frozen items like strawberries, green beans, and pesto cubes). Once we had the weights of the 35 main crops we grew, we then calculated what it would have cost us to buy the same items using three different sets of prices: conventional grocery store, farmers’ market and organic grocery store (Whole Foods, in our case). The total value came to $2196.50, $2431.15, and $2548.93 respectively. For the other economics majors and number crunchers among you, you can see our crunchy, raw data here.
There are things we didn’t include like the wild dandelion greens which we reaped but did not sow, the six or so carving pumpkins which we ultimately fed to our compost pile, and the countless snacks of strawberries, beans, peas, and tomatoes that never made it as far as our kitchen scale. There were also things we forgot to weigh like several pounds of grapes which turned into about 12 jars of jam. As with any growing season, there were hits and misses. The heaviest and most valuable crop was our tomatoes (158 lb/72 kg for a total value of $524). In terms of misses, our apple tree decided to take the year off and very few of our onions started from seed made it requiring me to buy some onion plants.
On the cost side, we had $130 for seeds and supplies, $12 for a soil test, and exceptional costs of $100 for some locally-made organic compost we bought for our “This Lawn is Your Lawn” frontyard garden (normally, we meet most of our soil fertility needs through our own composting). I don’t have a scientific calculation for water costs, but we don’t need to water much and, when we do, water is relatively cheap in Maine. Also, I mulch my beds pretty heavily to keep moisture in and weeds down. Let’s say $40 in water. So, if we consider that our out-of-pocket costs were $282 and the total value generated was $2431, that means we had a return on investment of 862%. The cost of our labor is not included because we enjoy gardening and the physical work involved. If I am to include my labor costs, I feel I should also include the gym membership fees, country club dues, or doctors’ bills I didn’t have.
If you really want to play around with the data, you can calculate how much a home garden like ours produces on a per acre basis. If you use the $2400 figure and consider that our garden is roughly 1/25th of an acre, it means that home gardens like ours can gross $60,000/acre. You can also calculate it on a square foot basis which in our case works out to be roughly $1.50/ft2. That would mean that a smaller garden of say 400ft2 would produce $600 of produce. Keep in mind that these are averages and that certain crops are more profitable and space efficient than others. A small garden planted primarily with salad greens and trellised tomatoes, for example, is going to produce more economic value per square foot more than one planted with potatoes and squash. We plant a bit of everything because that’s the way we like to garden and eat.
Clearly, this data is just for one family (of five), one yard (.3 acre), one garden (roughly 1600 square feet), and one climate (Maine, zone 5b/6), but it gives you some sense of what’s possible. If you consider that there are about 90 million households in the US that have some sort of yard, factor in the thousands of new community and school gardens we could be planting, this really could add up. Our savings allowed us to do different things including investing in some weatherization work for our house last fall that is making us a greener household in another way. Some might ask what this would mean for farmers to have more people growing their own food. The local farmers I know welcome it because they correctly believe that the more people discover what fresh, real food tastes like, the more they’ll want to taste. In our case, part of our savings helped us to buy better quality, sustainably-raised meat from a local CSA farmer.
The economics of home gardening may not be enough to convince President Obama or UK Prime Minister Gordon Brown to plant new gardens at the White House or 10 Downing Street, but the healthy savings their citizens could be making and then reinvesting in their local economies could.
In the end, it might come down to the language we use. Instead of saying “Honey, I’m going out to the garden to turn the compost pile”, perhaps we should say “Honey, I’m going outside to do a ‘green job’ and work on our ‘organic stimulus package.'” I bet that would get the attention of a few economists, not mention a few psychologists!
https://underwoodgardens.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/square-foot-garden.jpg6841023Stephen Scotthttps://underwoodgardens.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Survey-Header.jpgStephen Scott2009-03-17 21:25:592024-04-30 17:34:03The Value of a Home Garden
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About Eggplant…
I’ve never liked eggplant. The taste was bitter but past that, remarkably bland with a similar texture. Not that exciting.
So I decided to grow some this year. This is something I recommend against to my customers- “Grow what you like to eat” is what I advise.
My reasons for growing something that I don’t like are simple; I also don’t like supermarket tomatoes, yet love the ones that I grow. I wanted to try one eggplant to see if it was different than what I had tasted before. It’s the supermarket vs. homegrown argument on a different level. Supermarket tomatoes are merely tasteless, whereas eggplant is unpleasant to me.
The first eggplant of the season was ready yesterday. A medium gorgeously purple beauty, surprisingly light in weight. I pulled the cookbooks out to see what made sense to try that would showcase the flavor of the eggplant and didn’t require the oven on for an hour, or at all. Marcella Hazan came to the rescue once again. She is an incredible chef and writer of the lesser known Italian cooking that most of us have never experienced. You get the recipe, and the reasons for the actions taken in the cooking and why to not shortcut the steps. Flavors are described in detail and reasons behind the techniques are given, something I’ve rarely seen. The stories behind each recipe are compelling as well, something I love from the heirloom seeds.
The recipe I tried is Eggplant Sauce with Bell Pepper, Tomato and Basil. I’ll give it to you at the end. The freshly sliced eggplant was not bitter, but had a slightly sweet flavor that compounded the smell of the fresh eggplant. I salted it according to the directions, which made it sweeter. I chose this recipe as it used more fresh ingredients from our garden. I’ve got some wonderfulGenovese Basil that has an incredible aroma and holds up in cooking. I don’t have the bell peppers or tomatoes yet, so will try it again when another eggplant is ripe.
The overall character is complex and slightly spicy with many individual flavors that come through, yet is in harmony as no single flavor overpowers another. Italian flavor at it’s finest! The flavors are not overbearing, as most common American Italian cooking has become, but are lively and pleasing. This is a lighter dish, perfect for summer cooking, and can be done outside on a grill if one is experienced at outdoor cooking, not just barbecuing. This is a dish I would prep ahead of time to do trail side at the end of a long day exploring the backcountry of Arizona or the Southwest. It’s not hard, but attention and patience are needed to bring the flavors out! The small investment of time is well worth it.
Here’s the recipe:
1 1/2 lbs eggplant
Salt
1 ripe bell pepper (yellow is best, but make sure it’s ripe)
3 Tbs extra virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves sliced very thin
1/8 Tsp crushed red pepper or to taste
2 Tbs Italian flat leaf parsley- whole leaves, not chopped
1/3 Cup thinly sliced onion
1 Cup ripe fresh tomatoes, peeled and chopped. Canned Italian tomatoes will work.
1/3 Cup dry white wine
6 small basil leaves or 4 large ones, torn not cut into small pieces
6 green olives in brine, quartered
1 1/2 Tbs capers
1 Lb box dry pasta, penne is good choice
Slice eggplant in half. If seeds are dark, or if there a lot of seeds, scoop seeds out. Cut eggplant into 1 inch squares, put into colander rinse in cold water. Salt and let set for 45 minutes. This brings out the bitter liquid if there is any. Rinse again afterwards.
Split bell pepper in half, scoop out seeds and pith, then peel skin with swivel peeler. This removes the bitterness in the skin once cooked. Cut into thin strips.
Warm 3 Tbs olive oil in 10 inch skillet, then add garlic and chili pepper. Increase heat to medium, no more. Stir often just until garlic scent rises, no more.
Add whole parsley leaves. Careful, they will pop and sputter for a couple of seconds. Stir a couple of times, add onion and turn heat to low. Cook slowly until onion is soft. This increases the flavor by cooking slowly, and the garlic flavor is not entirely lost.
Add pepper strips, some salt and cook until pepper starts to be tender. Stir occasionally. You should have some liquid starting to build in the bottom of the pan.
Add eggplant, tomatoes, wine, basil, olives and capers. Stir several times to mix well. Slowly simmer with lid on for 40 minutes, watching liquid level. It should slowly decrease, and have almost no liquid at the end. Add a small amount if it looks dry. Stir occasionally during the simmer. Crack lid if too much liquid is remaining about 15 minutes before the end, or when you put the pasta water on.
Time cooking the pasta so its done just before the sauce, about 7-10 minutes. Toss pasta with sauce, adding 1 more Tbs olive oil and serve hot. Cheese is really not needed, but you can add a small amount of pecorino if you want. Don’t drown the delicate sauce in cheese!
Enjoy and let me know what you think! Please leave a comment!
Heirloom Red Russian Kale Recipes
Restaurant-Style Zuppa Toscana
Based on a popular restaurant starter soup.
INGREDIENTS
DIRECTIONS
done. Cut links in half lengthwise, then cut at an angle into 1/2-inch
slices.
heat until onions are almost clear. Remove bacon and crumble. Set
aside. Note- You can saute the kale at this step for extra richness in its flavor!
soup base, water, and potatoes, simmer 15 minutes. Note- This is where I prefer to add my kale! Russian kale will take the simmer without losing its texture and flavor.
Stir-Fried Kale and Broccoli Florets
Good for an unusual side dish. Can be used for a light fall lunch or dinner starter.
INGREDIENTS
DIRECTIONS
Pork Tenderloin with Steamed Kale
Amazing showcase of pork and kale. For extra flavor, marinate the tenderloin for a couple of hours, up to overnight.
INGREDIENTS
DIRECTIONS
There is some starters for what to do with kale. There are a lot of great bean/sausage/kale recipes that will keep you warm this fall and winter. Please let me know what you think, and share your experiences.
Happy eating!
How to Store Your Seeds for Next Year
We get a lot of questions on how to save seeds. Most of them are general seed saving questions, but most boil down to how to save seeds for the next year. Most of the seed packets have more seeds than will be used in one year, and most seeds are good for several years in proper storage conditions.
We get a chuckle from the e-bay seed sellers and survivalist stores that proclaim their seeds are nitrogen flushed, vacuum packed in tin cans or aluminum foil pouches, and are good for 5 or 10 years.
That’s great, but if the seeds are tossed out in the unheated/uncooled garage for 3+ years- guess what?
They’re DEAD!
The temperature/humidity fluctuations shortens the life of the stored seeds drastically. Seeds are the plant’s mechanism for propagation and survival. They have evolved to survive for a short time- e.g. a winter or two- in the ground until the optimum conditions arrive to sprout.
For almost all domesticated varieties that are used for food, the optimum conditions mean next spring. There definitely are seeds that will last longer, but most are non-food plants. Throughout history people would collect and save seeds for the next year or two and have kept plant varieties alive for thousands of years.
The best way to save seeds for future plantings are to keep the seeds in the original seed packets; that way you know where they came from, the name, planting instructions, etc. Then put them in clear Ziplock sandwich baggies with the date on the baggie.
This way you know when you started storing them.
Put all of the baggies in a gallon Ziplock and put it into the freezer.
“But won’t that hurt the seeds?”, people ask. Not at all!
This is why the Vavilov Institute in St. Petersburg, Russia uses liquid nitrogen to freeze seeds for a long time. This is also why the “Doomsday Vault” in Svalbard, Norway is located above the Arctic Circle and dug into the side of a mountain and several hundred feet down, to keep the vault below zero if the cooling system fails.
Your freezer is cold and has low humidity. You probably don’t go into the freezer several times a day like the refrigerator. Each time you open/shut the door, the outside air comes in, raising the temperature and humidity.
This isn’t good for your seeds if they are in the fridge. The freezer is more stable. Please understand the fridge is better than the garage or basement, but the freezer is even better, and you probably have space!
When time comes for planting next spring, take out the packets you will use, take out the seeds you will plant if there are a lot left, and put the bag back into the Ziplock and into the freezer. Let the seed to be planted come to room temperature before planting into the soil.
There are exceptions, of course. Onion seeds are good for 1 year, no more, no matter the method of keeping. Garlic only grows from the bulb or clove, freezing kills it.
There are some other varieties that have a short life in storage, but don’t get too caught up in that. If you plant each year, you will be fine.
When you start to save your own seed, the same procedure applies- just be sure the seed is DRY, or else the freeze will expand any moisture in the seed and destroy it.
Label the bag with the name, date harvested, date stored and freeze it.
If you get into seed saving, or want a lot more information on the methods and details for each variety of vegetable, Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth is a wonderful book. It is not light reading, but if treated like a reference book or text book, you’ll do just fine.
Raised Garden Beds at Underwood Gardens
We are finishing up our raised bed garden, and wanted to show you what we have been working on. The raised beds will be both production garden for our family, and a test garden for the seed business. Our garden is 35 x 70 feet; smaller than some, larger than others. There are several projects that we are working on that we will keep you up to date on with the blog, so check back often!
Today is an overview of the gardens, our climate and challenges that we face, as well as an introduction of some of the projects that we are working on.
We are at 5000 feet elevation, with 4 full seasons, and are located between Phoenix and Flagstaff, so we avoid the temperature extremes of both places. Our temperatures range from 110 to 20 degrees F. We are in a high desert environment with about 12 inches of rain annually. The soil here is good, but needs organic matter worked into it to be productive. Arizona has a lot of microclimates, as does most areas of the US that have hills and elevation changes, so this presents unique challenges to growing depending on where you live.
Some of our challenges include the wind, heat and dry climate. These combine to dry out a garden severely unless measures are taken. Wind protection, drip irrigation and lots of mulch are some of the things we do to keep moisture where we need it. Even with our challenges, we can grow a ton of food, and so can you!
Let’s take a look-
This South facing shot shows the raised beds, the blue wind break on the fence and the wood chips in the walkway. Over the fence in the background is the native grassland. There is weed cloth under the wood chips; this gives a good walking surface that keeps the weeds out! We are moving worms into each bed to help build soil and keep the beds aerated and healthy.
Here is a photo of the worm bed. We haven’t put the weed cloth and chips in the walkway yet, but the weed cloth under the bed is visible. This is where we will have lots of worms, in addition to charcoal, coffee grounds, and horse manure compost. The worms love coffee grounds, which also retain a lot of moisture to help jump start the soil building process. The white PVC piping is the drip manifold with the shut off valves and the garden hose that connects each bed to the next. The charcoal is visible under the drip tape. It acts as condos for the micro-organisms that live in healthy soil. The humus-like soil will be used to amend or top-dress the other growing beds in the fall and spring. Once we have enough, we can use the excess humus as another product to sell locally. We will keep you updated on the progress.
This should give a good overview of what we are doing and where we are going. We will give more detailed info in the next few posts, so stay tuned!
Please don’t think that this level of gardening is required to be successful, it’s not! A lot smaller garden can be just as productive on a smaller scale- all the way down to 2×2 feet… The most important thing is to just get started! We will go over options on sizes in future blogs. As always, if you have questions or comments, please leave them on the comments section, or call us at 888-878-5247!
The Value of a Home Garden
Well seed season is upon us! We have been busy with orders and talking to a LOT of incredibly nice and friendly people who are making things happen in the heirloom world. There has been a lot of support for us as new owners of Underwood Gardens and the direction that we are headed. We have found several new growers that will help us make the transition into more new and unusual heirloom varieties, while ensuring the quality and viability of the seed.
One of the trends we have seen is the amount of new or newer growers/gardeners that are looking at heirlooms for their gardens and food source. This is wonderful, especially in light of the legal action that Monsanto et al are trying to boondoggle America with. We ran across the following article at Kitchen Gardeners International and wanted to reprint it here in its entirety. Please enjoy, will write more later.
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